Horseradish, Borscht, and Hollywood: Bogart Pub in Podgorica

In Montenegro’s capital, there are plenty of bars - noisy, sterile, kitschy, genuine, local, raw, trendy, and forgotten. Each is interesting in its own way, but “Bogart” remains the only one I want to return to - not for the drinks or design, but because it feels like home. Not, of course, as grandma’s with her pies, but as an old friend’s, who always has a bit of spirits, time for a chat, and good music.

The place’s style is defined by an Old Hollywood - inspired interior with its movie starlets and vintage lamps, and its soul lies with the people who run it. Entering “Bogart” thinking I’d have a couple of shots or pints, I ended up chatting with the owner until I felt like I’d stumbled into a story worth telling.

Dear reader, I invite you to get acquainted with the next chapter of our series on the businesses of relocators in this cozy yet diverse Montenegro.

Contents

Act 1. A Glass of Beer

Act 2. Another Glass of Beer

Act 3. Tasting the Infusions

Act 4. One for the Road

Act 1. A Glass of Beer

No need to rush: let the bitterness of the hops gently tingle your tongue before it spreads through your body with that familiar warmth, where it all begins.

It was with this mindset that I began my conversation with Mikhail, the owner of “Bogart.” A man, as they say, of solid foundation: he looks stern, is initially taciturn, with an attentive gaze that conveys experience rather than pretense. He’s just over fifty, and his voice - with a southern drawl - seems built of brick and the smoke of a burned harvest.

But before you can take your second sip, you realize that behind this exterior “concrete” lives a man with a lively mind, self-irony, and a wonderful ability not just to listen, but to truly hear. And - and this is key - to take action. Actions that some might call, if not madness, then certainly an adventure. But more on that later - let’s find out how it came to be that he became the owner of this establishment and how he ended up in Podgorica in the first place. Over to Mikhail.

On Relocating.

I arrived in Montenegro on January 7, 2023. It took a long time to make the move, but eventually my wife was ready and said “yes” - so I bought a ticket.

At first, I flew here alone, without the “language” - I don’t even know English, although my wife teaches it.

The idea to open a bar? There wasn’t a concrete idea. I had some list of “wants” and possibilities of what I could do. And I simply created a document on my computer where I listed my “skills.”

How I Became the Owner of “Bogart”

I simply rented an apartment not far from here. At some point, I remembered that, as a family, we had once talked about a hypothetical vacation in the Balkans and had read somewhere about an interesting new place. That was “Bogart.” I found it, discovered some Russian bartender guys here, and started visiting.

Then I was told that the place was for sale. At first, I didn’t want to buy it, because I viewed that kind of business with some caution. Besides, they told me this on a Saturday evening—you know how it is. But in that first moment, I got excited—that’s exactly what I could do here - and then I looked and saw: behind the bar it’s just me and one other person. “No,” I thought, “this is dubious.” Yet I kept coming, got attached. When it became clear that all the other staff were about to run off and were finessing their exit, I finally decided to buy. It’s important to note that one of my conditions for purchase was that all the guys stay on. If they had left, I wouldn’t have bought it. And then I slowly started working.

About My “Previous Life”

I’ve spent my whole life working with people, despite being an introvert by nature. And in recent years (from 2014 to 2022), I ran my own holiday resort. That’s not the same thing, of course, but it gave me an understanding of how to communicate with people. So one of my “wants” was to buy a hotel on the coast. But as you see, I never made it to the coast - I did my research and realized I didn’t have enough money for a hotel.

Why Podgorica

Initially, I thought I’d live here for a couple of months, then spend some time in Bar, then return here for the season and only afterward decide what to do. But, first, the apartments here aren’t like that: everyone rents long-term or they’re expensive, and at the beginning of 2023 that was particularly problematic. And secondly, by May I had already bought the bar. My family came in the summer because my daughter was finishing school. So that’s how we settled.

Act 2. Another Glass of Beer

We’re off to a good start! The conversation flows, as does the beer. It’s the perfect time to discuss the peculiarities of doing business “the Montenegrin way”: bureaucracy, the language barrier, and the nuances of dealing with the locals.

Previous Owners, Friendship of Nations, and Communicating with Montenegrins

The previous owners of the place were Turkish. Incidentally, that still somewhat hinders attracting a local crowd - they hold quite a prejudice against Turks. And they can project a similar attitude onto us, Russian-speaking migrants.

This everyday xenophobia, in principle, isn’t surprising. After all, a hundred years ago they went through a massive wave of Russian emigration. And the society itself is very closed—and if you want to be part of it, you have to accept their rules of the game, fully immerse yourself in their cultural code. And you can understand them - only this way can small peoples preserve their identity.

And I’m already fifty; to uproot and move to yet another country, learn another language… No. I’m even struggling to learn the local language because my head doesn’t work like it used to. But I’m working at it - I had a lesson today, for instance.

In fact, with the language it went like this: I studied it for about the first four to five months, and then I stopped. Over time, however, I realized that the need for more competent communication grew and that I had to continue raising my level. I’ll say even more: one of our beer suppliers is local. He said right away, “Now that you’ve come here, I will speak to you only in my language; I don’t want to speak English.” And I think that’s normal. And if you live here for several years, learning the language is not a problem.

How Things Are at the Bar: Workflows

I went down a dead-end path - I started catering to the Russian-speaking crowd. And that crowd… I don’t even know how to explain… In 2023, people came here en masse to meet and socialize. Now, they stop by more in groups, like we used to in Russia: “Shall we go to the bar? Let’s go.” And there are the lone birds who know that you can always find someone to talk to here - even if no one else is around, the bartenders are always there.

In short, I occupied a niche that is dependent. And with the locals who stop by, you sometimes have to explain and tell them that the owners have changed. That’s important to them.

Actually, for the first three months here I did almost nothing. I would sit in this spot and just watch, observe. In fact, Alexey, the bartender, essentially ran the place.

But the Infusions - Now That’s Our Thing

Back in Russia, I had a hobby - moonshining. Naturally, that’s inseparable from infusions. There’s already a piece of my soul in them. Although I’m not the only one making the infusions; the guys do too.

Act 3. Tasting the Infusions

Close your eyes and imagine: on the table sits a bowl of hearty borscht, with even a spoon standing upright. Next to it—a shot of cold vodka. A sandwich on black bread with salo and garlic. You take a spoonful of borscht, chase it with vodka, then nibble on the sandwich. Imagine that? That same experience is captured in the infusion called “Borscht,” which is part of “Bogart’s” selection. In addition, they have: horseradish vodka, cherry liqueur, dill infusion, pepper vodka, raisin infusion, Borodino (with the taste of Borodino bread), Limoncello, Orangecello, and so on.

The selection is quite extensive! And the price is very reasonable: €2.5–3 per item.

Horseradish Is Hard to Find - or Where to Look for Ingredients

The borscht infusion is an exclusive and complex topic. But even with classic horseradish vodka, nothing is as simple as it might seem. The thing is, finding that very horseradish in season is a whole quest. When I started looking for it in the summer, I went to the largest market and asked, “Horseradish root? Horseradish root?”

After wandering for a long time, someone finally told me that until October it’s pointless to even try looking; it won’t be available. “Why do you need it in summer? In winter - yes, but in summer why?”

What’s Next

Everyone is in the same state right now: no confidence in tomorrow, it’s not very clear what’ll happen in a year or two. Many have left - some to Serbia, others to different countries or cities. As for me, I don’t work to sell alcohol; I work for people. And without people, it all loses meaning. That’s why I want more locals to come. They won’t go anywhere.

We’ve started running our Instagram in the local language (I don’t know what’s correct: Serbian or Montenegrin, as both have corrected me. So - in the local language). And I ask the staff to communicate with and greet Montenegrins in their language. Of course, it’s not an easy task and things won’t change overnight. We will keep working on it.

“Well, Here’s to the Music!” Or What’s Happening?

There’s always something going on. I joke that we’ve essentially become a karaoke pub. Karaoke happens five, sometimes six times a week. And traditionally on Fridays there are concerts, house gigs, lectures, board games, stand-up, and so on. Fairly well-known performers and speakers also pop by, so keep an eye on our social media poster.

Act 4. One for the Road

And how about your family? Have your wife and daughter settled in here yet? Also, tell us about your impressions of Montenegro as your new home.

On Personal Matters

My wife, surprisingly, took the move very well, very calmly. Perhaps it helped that she didn’t arrive to an empty place - I was already doing something and trying to provide for us. But she is an English teacher herself, so she’s busy with that too.

My younger daughter, still in Russia, found herself a Russian boyfriend here. So on the very first day when I met them at the airport, I took her to surprise the boy. And now she lives with him separately. My elder daughter is married and stayed in Russia. So, of course, there’s some negativity there…

Montenegro: To Live or Not to Live?

A good country, quiet, peaceful. Perhaps for younger and more active people here, there’s a lack of many things - entertainment, marketplaces, and so on. But I like it. I grew up and spent my entire conscious life in a city of a million, and here it’s a completely different experience and pace. Seven minutes by car is already far away. As Denis Chuzhoy said, it’s an excellent country to grow old and die in. I’m in no rush for the latter, of course. And I will continue to develop my hobbies. Besides moonshine, that includes meat products: dried sausages, cervelats, and so on. But I haven’t gotten around to that yet: you need the paperwork, the funds, and the equipment. I’m waiting for the right moment. Moreover, here the state often supports small local productions with grants. For that, you need to start, show some results, and in a year it’s quite realistic to apply for financial support. As for infusions, mulled wine, and other signature drinks, in the future I’d like to sell them bottled, legalizing all the details. In any case, time will tell!