Off-season in Montenegro: when the sea exhales

For most people, a seaside vacation means sunshine, beaches, cocktails at the bar, dinners in restaurants (optionally followed by drunken karaoke), and beautiful photos for Instagram.

But what is summer like for those who live by the sea all year round? It’s also crowds of drunk people 24/7, high prices, traffic jams on roads (and sidewalks), petty thieves, noise, heat, and the desire to hide at home until sunset.

For us, the residents of the Montenegrin coast who don’t work in tourism, the off-season is the golden time! That’s exactly what this little reflection is about.

Contents

Vibe

Pros and cons of living by the sea off-season

Afterword

My family and I have been living in Budva for three years now. And you can’t even imagine how much we love the first of September! No, we’re not fans of school. And we don’t work in education. We just see how an invisible heavenly cow licks away about half the people from our city’s streets with its magical tongue. You can literally feel the air becoming lighter and fresher, your shoulders relax – there’s no need to dodge thousands of tourists while going to buy bread.

And the sea! Dear inhabitants of northern cities, you can’t imagine how it transforms in solitude! Majestic, beautiful, temperamental – it, too, seems to start breathing deeper, letting itself dance wildly more often.

And the mountains! As the cold approaches, their slopes remember that they’re true fashion icons – dressing in white coats and showing off in a dangerous but stunning icy cape that shines in the winter sun. No wildfires here, no smoky gray haze – just dignity and grace.

And the views! The highways, freed from endless buses, motorcycles, and caravans of travelers, open up to those lucky enough to simply drive from point “A” to point “B” through this wonderful country.

Speaking practically, here are the main perks of living in Montenegro’s coastal towns during the off-season:

• Prices are lower – in stores, cafes, and even rent.
• People are calmer. Locals relax after the busy season and drift into a cozy hibernation in their favorite kafanas. Expats, on the contrary, become more active – they meet up, organize quizzes, parties, concerts, and social events.
• Nature is just as beautiful. And what could be better than enjoying it without the constant elbow of a tourist next to you?
• There are way more cultural events. Local festivals begin, and attending them is a much more interesting way to get to know the culture and spirit of the country.

And the downsides? Well, of course, there are a few. For example, last year I swam for the last time in early December and had to wait until April. And if we want to see snow, we have to drive north. But honestly, one such trip per year is enough – we’ve seen plenty of snow in our previous lives.)

Also, winter is a great time to catch crabs. Just shhh! Don’t tell anyone – I need them all to myself!

The off-season in Montenegro is the time when life takes off its tourist makeup and becomes real. No show, no noise – just the calm and peace that many of us once moved here for. The only thing that matters is to enjoy the silence before the first suitcases arrive again with the cries of “Where’s the beach?”